Above & Beyond in Alaskan Wilderness

20th July - 2021

Now this is a blog that you do not want to miss.

Rolling the clock back 8-years to 2013, almost to the day, my son Nathaniel & I had the experience of a lifetime on a 10-day rafting expedition down the mighty Tatshenshini River which winds its way through the tenth most remote wilderness area in the world.

One of our fellow adventurers for the next 
10-days of our rafting expedition was
super model, Tiffany Richards

Our adventure started with a 45-minute ferry ride from Skagway, Alaska down to Haines, Alaska. In Haines, we hooked up with Colorado River & Trail Expeditions tour group for our 10-day rafting journey starting out inside the Tatshenshini-Alesk Provincial Park in the Yukon Territory of Canada. 

The Tatshenshini-Alesk Provincial Park contains almost one million hectares of glacier-cloaked peaks, wild river systems, grizzly bears and a large diversity of wildlife & plant communities. It has been designated a World Heritage site.

Father & son all frocked up and ready for departure
on our 10-day river rafting adventure

We headed due north out of Haines, deep into the remote wilderness, where after a 3-hour coach ride we reached our embarkation point. Our raft trip will launch from a small place just north of the British Columbia border near Dalton’s Post in the Yukon Territory. We arrived into the Aspen and Alder forests of the Yukon. This is where the Tatshenshini River threads its way through the river valleys of the Tatshenshini-Alesk Provincial Park down into the very north-west corner of British Columbia.

Sitting on the river’s gravel bar edge at Dalton’s Post, our five fully provisioned rafts were waiting for us. Not a house or a human in sight. Upon arrival at the Tatshenshini River we were introduced to our five guides that would be totally responsible for us for the next 10-days, including our safety from wild animals & the dangers of the raging, white-water rapids of the Tatshenshini River.

Tiffany Richards' brush with fame...
myself on the left, Tiffany, John Nash

Our party consisted of ten adventure seeking participants from various walks of life. We gathered around the water's edge getting to know each other while we prepared our kit bags & personal belongings for the journey ahead.

John Toner, our Team Leader briefed us all on what we had ahead of us, most importantly the safety requirements, if we were confronted with any wild animals such as moose, black bear, grizzly bear, bison, etc. In our pack we were all issued with bear spray & a pressure pack horn to hopefully scare away a grizzly bear should it decide to attack.

 Our fearless leader John Toner armed 
with his non-lethal deterrent can of Bear spray

If we were confronted by any of these wild animals while on any of our hikes to the various glaciers, or even in our camp at night it was imperative that we follow John's instructions. John also carried a big hunting rifle that hopefully would stop a moose or a grizzly in its tracks. 

Moose are twice as dangerous as grizzly bears, I didn't know that previously, I thought that the grizzly bear would be the worst. Out here, you certainly learn something new every day.

An inquisitive grizzly bear approaching our camp
as he patrols along the edge of the gravel bar

Let's get started conquering the mighty Tatshenshini River.

Day 1: There were five rafts in our entourage, two adventurers per raft & overseen by one raft commander, very cozy, we definitely were not overcrowded. Once we departed Dalton’s Post we enjoyed a gentle introduction to the river & the running rapids.

Our first introduction to the gentle rapids on
Day 1 of our adventure.

Our raft commander Greg Williams from Moab, Utah, is a 65-year old River Rat that spent most of his life as a guide working expeditions on the Colorado River with countless years of experience, so I felt very comfortable with him in charge of my life. Today we only spent 3-hours on the river making camp around 5:00pm to erect our tents beside the river.

Dewey gives us the heads up for our first night's
camp set up on the banks of the Tatshenshini River

During the afternoon rafting down the river we were fortunate enough to spot numerous magnificent bald eagles. This bird is the National symbol of the United States. It was wonderful to be able to see the bald eagle soaring high above the trees & mountains in the wild. The bald eagle was on the verge of extinction when the US Federal Government declared it an endangered species in 1978 under the Endangered Species Act. Today, there are more than 9,800 nesting male & female pairs across the USA. We also spotted three sets of white swans on the river.

While dinner was being prepared by our Guides, there was another most important chore to do. As you can see in the photograph below. Due to very strict environmental concerns, whatever you take into the Tatshenshini-Alesk Provincial Park must also come out of the Park. Check out the community 'Dunny' with hand deodoriser & wipes (below). When the ammunition cases were full, they were then sealed with their lids & loaded onto the rafts for disposal at the end of the trip. Our guides enforced this rule as they really genuinely cared for this majestic piece of planet earth.

Our makeshift loo that we carried with us.
All contents have to be carried to the end of our journey

Day 2: Waking up early to enjoy the magnificent weather & scenery, breakfast was prepared & served by our guides (pancakes, sausages with all the trimmings, fresh fruit tea & coffee). John briefed us on today's events. We would be spending 6-hours rafting on the river today before making our next camp where we would be spending a 2-day slip. 

Camped by the river’s edge, the evening dinner included hamburgers, bratwurst sausage & salad. After dinner, we would all sit around the warm campfire under a chandelier of stars discussing the day's events before we retired to our tents around midnight.

Day 3: Brekko, bacon & eggs (cooked to order mind you; scrambled, poached, fried, boiled, even eggs benedict). John’s briefing included the day’s activities, we had a choice to climb a nearby mountain or pan for gold. I have to tell you that I chose the far less strenuous option of panning for gold. Nathaniel chose to climb a nearby 4,000ft mountain, his group left camp at 11:00am. I hung around camp & watched through binoculars as they reached their first ascent marker around the 2,000ft level.

We were continually marveled at the spectacular
scenery at every turn of the river.

One of the other more senior members of our group decided to come panning for gold with me. We had some good fortune & managed to retrieve some minuscule pieces of gold from the river. However, I decided that I was not going to strike the mother lode like the gold rush days around these parts in the late 1800s. I called it quits after about an hour of panning.

Nathaniel, Tiffany, Mark, & Mike along with their guides Bill & Dewey carrying their rifles & food supplies eventually climbed to the summit of this towering and steep mountain above us. They did not return to camp until 6:00pm, completely exhausted. They were gone for a total of 7-hours. I was so proud of Nathaniel's effort, the comments I received from the guides of his determination & behaviour were exemplary.

Later that evening while reminiscing around the campfire Nathaniel told me that it was the hardest thing that he had ever attempted in his life. This evening's dinner menu was spaghetti bolognese & salad, followed by after dinner a chat around the campfire before retiring to our tent at 10:00pm.

Nathaniel & the others preparing to climb the 4,000ft
mountain with mountain in background

Day 4: Today was more or less a rest day because of the events of the previous day (climbing a mountains & panning for gold took it toll on us). We packed up camp after lunch and proceeded down river. We were only on the river for a very short time today until we made camp around 4:00pm. We were continually marveled at the spectacular scenery at every turn of the river.

The weather was superb, today the temp was 70°f/21°c. Shorts & t-shirt weather. Once we had set up camp & erected our tent Nathaniel sat beside the river catching up writing his journal. I enjoyed my first real wash in a side stream from the main river. Let me tell you the river water was very piccadilly, but so refreshing. 

Picturesque mountains, sculptured icebergs, & our very
own glacial mermaid Tiffany, making even the permafrost melt

Our gourmet bush dinner was served, steak & vegetables, not too shabby. After dinner around the campfire I realised that I had not worn my thermal underwear on the whole journey, we also have experienced no rain, almost unheard of in this part of the world.

Day 5: We had a very challenging 7-hour day on the river today. On the way down the river today John warned us that we would experience the most turbulent and roughest rapids so far on our journey. Sure enough our raft took a very large wave over the bow that engulfed the whole raft, resulting in a complete soaking of us & everything else in its wake.

Eventually we made camp just north of the Alsek River. Our campsite position was by far the most beautiful campsite we have stayed in on the Tatshenshini River to this point. We camped on a river delta with 360° views from our tent. Let me try & explain our uninterrupted views of, glaciers, snow capped mountains with valleys and peaks all around us, and among these geological masterpieces, we had peace & tranquility. This is where the Alsek River & the mighty Tatshenshini River join together. After an enormous day on the river it was a quick bite to eat & jump into the cot.

The river varied in widths, here as we get closer to the delta
and with tributaries flowing in, it grows bigger in volume and wider

Day 6: Was our biggest day for spotting wild animals. During the peace & quiet of night while laying in my sleeping bag I could hear the growls of the Grizzly bears & also the high-pitched scream of the Moose. I would think to myself, I wonder how far these wild animals were from visiting our camp & what on earth I would do if I was actually fronted by one of these wild beasts. Didn't happen, so I rolled over & went to sleep with my fingers crossed.

Whitney spotted a mighty-sized Moose that morning crossing the river not all that far from camp. Later on in the morning we all went for a walk along the foreshore of the river with our Grizzly Bear spray, our pressure pack horn & the Guides were armed with their hunting rifles just in case we would meet up with adversity.

Nathaniel spotted a Black Bear 200m behind us, he was only a little fella so there was no need for any serious panic, more Bald Eagles & their large nests. After our walk along the river we went back to camp & enjoyed lunch. After lunch I decided that it was time for me to have a Nanny nap so I strolled back to our tent & fell asleep immediately.

Breaking camp and loading up the rafts was
a regular chore after our overnight riverside stops

Then all hell broke loose, Nathaniel interrupted my sleep, he burst into the tent & yelled at me “Dad get out of here because there is a monstrous Grizzly Bear heading our way towards the camp”. I jumped out of my sleeping bag with my heart thumping furiously in my chest & ran down to where everyone else had gathered. It’s far safer to be gathered in a larger group. All our guides had their hunting rifles in their hands, at the ready, just in case our inquisitive friend wanted to have a piece of us for lunch. At this moment, Mr Grizzly Bear had our full attention, trust me.

When he was around 75mtrs from our group he stopped walking towards us, he stood up on his hind legs (all 8ft of him & I would say weighing up to 360 kg (800 lbs). He was such a beautiful specimen of an animal not to mention the gorgeous reddy colour of his beautiful coat. What a moment for all of us, this is exactly what we had come here to experience. He just looked at us all to check us out then decided that it was OK for all of us to come play in his backyard.

One of our rafts approaching the
terminus of the Walker Glacier 

He went back down onto all fours then wandered off into the wild. What an experience, by far the most exciting & dangerous day we have enjoyed all trip. I know that sounds strange, however how many people have experienced that exhilarating moment in their life with a real live close encounter with a hulking Grizzly Bear breathing down your neck?

I know this tale is becoming bigger than Ben Hur, however this blog is not only written for whoever wants to read it, it is also a recollection of our trip to Alaska for my son & I. If I am boring you, you can always opt out by clicking out of this adventure.

Day 7: Before departure from this wonderful campsite our Team Leader John wanted to show us all a very, very special rock carving. This is called a Petroglyph. They are rock carvings made by pecking directly on the rock surface using a stone chisel & a hammerstone. I realise that my photograph of this Petroglyph is not very clear.

Hard to make out the details, but this is the petroglyph
or rock carving that pre-dates modern explorers to this region 

However what you are looking at is between 100-2,000-years-old, the experts can’t agree on an exact age. I found this to be truly amazing because I have never seen anything like this in all my travels around the world.

Another huge day on the river today, travelling time to our next camp at Walker Glacier 6-hours where we made our campsite in the foreground of the Walker Glacier.

Our entire team prior to our challenging walk
on the slopes of the Walker Glacier

Day 8: Today, the entire team went for a hike on the ice-age landscapes of the Walker Glacier. We hiked up onto the glacier & took photos of the Crevasses. Along the hike we passed rushing glacial streams and spotted signs of bear & moose scat. We also saw evidence of where the bears had been digging for roots & food. The glaciers come right down to the river’s edge.

So far the weather has been exceptional, apart from a little rain on day six & a little drizzle on the morning of day seven we have been blessed. Tonight’s camp fire and clear skies is filled with a full moon.

The view from our campsite of a full moon rising
over the nearby mountain peaks was just so spectacular

Day 9: This definitely has turned out to be a bigger adventure than any of us could ever have imagined. We departed from Walker Glacier this morning to spend another 3-hours drifting down the Tatshenshini River towards Alsek Lake. 

Setting off on our trek across the accessible edges
along the sprawling face of the Walker Glacier

We drifted past the spectacular Mt.Kennedy far off in the distance. Mount Kennedy (17,400ft) is a peak within the Kluane National Park in the Yukon, the summit lies within 10kms of the Alaskan panhandle.

The Canadian Government named the peak in honor of the 35th US President John F Kennedy nearly a year following his assassination on 22nd November 1963, at that time it was the highest peak in North America that had not yet been climbed.

Mount Kennedy in the far distance, this aerial shot gives you
a perspective of the kind of extreme and remote territory we were in

We also witnessed Mount Fairweather (15,500ft) way off in the distance. This mountain is in the Saint Elias Mountains on the border between Alaska & British Columbia which is the highest mountain in Canada. When we finally arrived at Alsek Lake where we had to navigate our way through all the icebergs that break off from the hundred of glaciers & then flow down the Tatshenshini River towards Dry Bay, Alaska & finally find their way out into the Pacific Ocean.

Alsek Lake was teeming with icebergs including this little
cluster that I named 'The Three Sisters'

Tonight was our last night of camping, we made our final night's camp on an island overlooking three imposing Glaciers. In one of the photos you can see where our tent was situated with thousands of icebergs flowing down the river in the background, some of these icebergs were as large as a small building. All night you could hear these icebergs breaking up & moving down the river, very eerie indeed. We are now on our last night in the wilds of Alaska.

The weather is still perfect, our team leader John made a comment that evening after dinner when we were being serenaded by Sabrina & her guitar with a good old sing song gathered around our last campfire, that in the seventeen trips that he has made down the Tatshenshini & Alsek rivers that this trip has been the best trip weather-wise that he has experienced so far, so how lucky were we?

Nathaniel mans the oars, carefully sculling, while navigating
the raft through the narrow field of icebergs

These photographs are pure gold, where else on the planet can you navigate your way through icebergs in a rubber raft. Where else can you paddle a raft in between icebergs, in the distance you can hear sounds like thunder, that noise is coming from the icebergs breaking away from the huge glaciers and the tumbling rocks falling down the glacial streams. Tonight is our very last night on the Tatshenshini River before we drift on down to Dry Bay tomorrow to conclude an experience of a lifetime.

Day 10: Today being our last day on the river. We’d had so much beauty and excitement wrapped into the last 10-days. I was touched with pangs of sadness that it had all come to an end, besides the clouds are very low today over the majestic mountain ranges, with only a 3-hour journey on the river before we entered the small fishing community of Dry Bay, it really didn't matter if it rained.

Packing up all our equipment and deflating the rafts
everything has to be loaded back onto the aircraft for departure

Dry Bay is located inside Alaska's Glacier Bay National Park. We moored our rafts near the bush air strip’s runway where there were three aircraft waiting for us. Our final job was to deflate all the rafts so that they would fit inside the aircraft’s baggage holds, pack up all of the equipment & load everything into the aircraft.

Once everything had been cleaned up & packed away it was now time to say our good-byes to everyone, board the aircraft for the 1-hour flight back to Haines International Airport.

Our aircraft on finals for a safe return to 
Haines International Airport in Alaska

Here's my summary of our sensational 10-day adventure on the Tatshenshini River in Alaska. July 15th - 25th July 2013.

* We covered a distance of 132 miles (212kms) in the 10-days on the Tatshenshini River.

* We didn't see another person in those 10-days other than the people in our group.

* We saw an abundance of wildlife in their natural habitat. Grizzly bears, black bears, moose, deer, caribou, bison, mountain goat, foxes, bald eagles, salmon, trout. Countless types of bird life that call Alaska their home especially in the summertime.

*Observation of most of these wild animals we witnessed from our rafts as we floated down the river.

* 4x2 day camps, 2x1 day camps.

Nathaniel and I under the wing of our fully loaded Cessna 206
preparing to depart Dry Bay for Haines, Alaska

*Gourmet, delicious, quality and unique meals delivered by an engaging crew of helpful, caring and accommodating people.

* Nothing was ever too much trouble for our guides to deliver the best time possible to each & every one of us 24/7.* The camping equipment, wet & cold weather gear & rafts supplied by Colorado River & Trail Expeditions from (Salt Lake City) were First Class. Absolutely no expense spared.

The amazing success of our trip was due to all of our guide’s hard work and truly professional and caring outlook to the journey makers and our safe passage through this pristine environment.

Nathaniel & myself loved the extreme remoteness of this part of the world, how often could you go 10-days without seeing another person, anywhere in the world. The Tatshenshini River is real wilderness, natural beauty personified. It does not come any better than this.

Our Tatshenshini River journey map.
With the 'put in' at Dalton Post and the 'take out' at Dry Bay

We have experienced as father & son something very unique together & absolutely loved & adored every minute of this real life adventure that has left us both with everlasting memories that we will take to our graves.

In closing, I can highly recommend our expedition company to you; Colorado River & Trail Expeditions - who are celebrating their 50th year of operations this year.

Thanks for letting us share our story with you, I sincerely hope that you have enjoyed reading this blog & enjoy looking at the phenomenal photographs that we captured along the way.

Warbo

The resurrection of 'Bruno'. Rego No. JT205N.

13th July - 2021

This journey started way back in December 1999. I received a phone call from my friend Graeme Bethell one Saturday afternoon, he was in all sorts of strife. He was calling me from Burraneer Bay where he was stranded in his boat on a sandbar in the middle of Burraneer Bay. He asked me if I could check out the tides to see when the next high tide was due. 

The original condition of 'Bruno' when 
we purchased her in August 1999

Reason being he had run aground in his 'Putter' & wanted me to rescue him from the sandbar. As luck would have it the tide was on the turn & would be on its way in again in a couple of hours.

I said to Graeme, hang in there mate & I will come & tow you off the sandbar in a couple of hours when the tide has risen high enough, in the meantime I organised my dinghy with a tow rope & proceeded up the river to where he was stranded.

Mission accomplished, I was able to drag his boat 'Bruno' into deeper water. We motored back to my place & celebrated with a few cool beers.

A second aerial view of 'Bruno's' original condition
when we purchased her in August 1999

During the afternoon Graeme mentioned to me that he was completely over the boat because he was also having engine problems & the vessel also needed a heap of tender loving care as he had not kept up with the maintenance, & as every boat owner knows there is always plenty of work to do on a boat that is moored in the water all the time, as you can witness by the first photograph in my story.

For better or worse we came to an agreement that I would take his boat off his hands for the pricely sum of $500. Heaven only knows what I had got myself into as you will see as my story continues.

Family tradition: In 1960 my Dad purchased this 18ft
half-cabin clinker hulled launch - it was named 'The Gem'

I have a very soft spot for 18ft half-cabin (clinker built) launches, because in 1960 when I was but a lad (13 years old) my Dad purchased an 18ft half-cabin (clinker built) launch named 'The Gem'. We moored the boat at the Gunnamatta Bay Marina as you can see by the black & white photograph (above), for those of you that know Gunnamatta Bay Marina this was way before the current multi million dollar marina that is built there today. 

Our family spent many wonderful days out on the water enjoying the magnificent Port Hacking estuary and the Hacking River in the Shire in the early '60s. I suppose those delightful memories made me jump at the opportunity to turn back the clock 39-years to my youth to reminisce about that period of my life.

I needed the help from my mates to turn the
hull over before starting to repair the hull. 

I was still flying with Qantas Airways as an International Trolly Dolly in 1999 when I purchased 'Bruno' so I had plenty of time on my days off to resurrect this dilapidated old craft.

Once I had removed 'Bruno' from the water to commence the restoration it suddenly occurred to me that I was in for one hell of a job. Anyone that knows me realises that I do not do things in half measures. The transom of the boat was completely rotten out & from the top plank of the hull including the cabin was also in not much better condition.

To ensure it was water-tight, I completed a Fibreglass
encasement & covering of the old wooden hull

I decided the only way to repair this boat to my standards would be to replace the transom & completely rebuild the half-cabin from the top plank of the hull up. Needless to say this was turning into a huuuge restoration, I could not do all the woodwork myself, so I decided to hire the services of a professional Shipwright (at mind you $55 per hour in 1999). 

I was his lackey, I completely burnt off all the old paint from the hull & dismantled the transom & removed the half cabin & decking from the top plank of the hull so we could start all over again. As you can see in the photo I needed the help from my mates to turn the hull over before starting to repair the hull. 

I had also made another major decision regarding the hull. Everyone knows that has ever owned a wooden boat that they (all leak water), I decided that we would overcome that future problem by completely fiber-glassing the clinker hull with very fine fiberglass. I still wanted to retain the clinker look of the hull that is why we used very fine sheets of fiberglass that would follow the shape of the planks on the hull as is witnessed in the photographs.

I firstly installed a 2-cylinder Volvo Penta diesel engine
but I later replaced that with a 189 Holden engine.

As you can see in the photo above, the boat was fitted with a 2-cylinder Volvo Penta diesel engine. I also needed to make the decision of 'do I retain this engine or replace it with something like a petrol power plant?'. More to that decision later in the story.

Towards the end of December 1999 the boat was ready to be relaunched, (see photos below). We spent many hundreds of hours restoring the boat & not to mention the many, many thousands of dollars to get the boat to this stage. (more on that later).

We launched the boat to much fanfare, including smashing a bottle of French Champagne Veuve Clicquot over the bow as we launched the boat back into Port Hacking.

Towards the end of December 1999, the
boat was getting ready to be launched

Another major decision before relaunching, I decided to retire the name 'Bruno' & relaunch my new 18ft half-cabin clinker launch with our family's original boat's name from the 1960s. 'The Gem'.

My parents were delighted that I renamed my boat, especially my Dad. He was overwhelmed. Before their passing we also spent many wonderful days reminiscing about our time spent on our original 'Gem' half a century ago cruising up & down the picturesque Hacking River on the new 'Gem'.

In this shot you can clearly see the classic lines 
of the completely restored unique clinker hull

Not that long after I relaunched 'The Gem' in the early 2000s, I also had to make another major decision about the engine. The 2-cylinder Volvo Penta diesel engine was a pain in the butt. When cruising you could not hear yourself think, it was so damn noisy & vibrated right through the hull of the boat. I bit the bullet & decided to fit a 189 (petrol) Holden engine, I completely marinised the engine & fitted a silk drive Borg Warner gearbox. Pure Gold.

Now I was completely satisfied with my new toy. It is now 15-years since I installed the new power plant & gearbox, not one ounce of trouble, & guess what, the hull does not leak one egg cup of water.

What 'The Gem' a classic 18ft half-cabin clinker
looks like today - some 22-years later

My son Nathaniel is now 30-years-old, he has grown up with this boat, he actually uses it more than I do. When he was younger we would invite his mates to go fishing, Wow! What a great time those young boys enjoyed over the years, my son & I have taught dozens of our friends, male & females, to catch their first fish. It is such a delight to witness someone catch their first decent sized fish, trust me. There is nothing like feeling that tug on your fishing line & landing your catch successfully.

The final photograph (below) show you the finished product, hanging off my pontoon in Port Hacking. I am very proud of the restoration & over the years our family has enjoyed countless experiences that money can not buy.

Now for the Nitty-gritty that I know you are all hanging out for. Remember earlier on I told you that I purchased 'Bruno' for $500 after hauling Graeme off the sand bar.

Now I have a classic 18ft half-cabin clinker
boat that nobody else can have

What you see now in the latter two photos, 'The Gem' actually owes me $50,000 & that does not include my labour, however, I have a Classic 18ft half-cabin clinker boat that nobody else can have, of which I more or less rebuilt myself, this was not a cheque book restoration.

Summing up this journey, as you know I love old things that nobody else can have, it takes a lot of time & energy, however the final result is very satisfying. If that is not a good story, I don't know what is.

I sincerely hope that you enjoy it. Stay safe, cheers for now from the 'Squire from the Shire'.

Warbo


NB: My next episode will be to tell you all about our Canadian Yukon & Alaskan adventure. Nathaniel & I spent 14-days on a raft traveling down the Alsek & Tathsenshini Rivers which is the 10th most remote place in the world where we encountered experiences with grizzly bears & icebergs.

From an International Trolly-Dolly to a Model A Ford 'Tragic'

1st May - 2021

This story all began with a visit to the Easter Powerboat Races on the Manning River, Taree, NSW in April of 2009.

After an illustrious 32-year career with Qantas Airways I decided to retire from the airline industry & enjoy life or what I had left of it in October 2006.

My Dad's words of wisdom still ring loudly in my ears on my first day of retirement. "You realise son that you are going to need a hobby or something else that makes you want to get out of bed every day". Never a truer word spoken, as I am sure all retirees will agree to.

Easter Boat Races on the Manning River,
Taree, NSW in April of 2009.

As mentioned earlier I retired in October 2006, my first handyman job was to rebuild my 18ft Half Cabin Clinker Hull Launch, now that was a challenge as you will find out in my next Blog, so stay tuned for that adventure.

When I started renovating my boat I met up with Jimmy Broadley from Diablo Motors located in Haldon St, Lakemba, NSW - I'm sure that a lot of you old petrol heads would know of Jimmy or had done business with him over the years.

Fast forward two years to the Easter weekend in 2009. Our relationship had developed from doing business to becoming close friends because of our love for motor sports & anything fast.

In August 1999, my first handyman job was to rebuild
my 18ft Half Cabin Clinker Hull Launch

Jim asked me if I would like to accompany him to the Powerboat Races to be held on the Manning River at Taree to be held at Easter (in April 2009). I readily agreed - not knowing what l had ahead of me.

We arrived at Taree, parked his vehicle beside the Manning River to start watching the boat races. Little did l know at that point of time who this man Jim Broadley was, however it sure did not take too long to realise that I was with an absolute legend of Powerboat racing in Australia.

As we walked along the shore line checking out all these magnificent race crafts, every man & his dog were coming up to Jim shaking his hand, patting him on the back wanting to talk to him & have their photograph taken with him, only then did l realise who this celebrity was, I had absolutely no idea how famous this man was until we arrived in Taree.

Why am l telling you this story?

During the day l met various petrol heads like myself, Jim had introduced them to me through out the day. For some unknown reason one of Jimmy's friends asked me if l was interested in buying a Model A Ford, at that point of time l said to him "mate, l already have six motor vehicles, & l need another car like l need a hole in the head." 

Anyway to cut a long story short, l asked Jim if we could make a detour into Newcastle on the way home to check out this Model A Ford that l didn't know the foggiest about, at that point of time l didn't even know what a Model A Ford looked like.

Two days later we arrive in Newcastle at this chap's place, he was there waiting for us, I had no idea what to expect until he opened the roller shutter on his garage. There in all its glory was this 1931 2-door Model A Ford Tudor Delux Sedan. 

I purchased the car in this condition with a
burnt out roof and original left-hand drive

There was only one slight problem this vehicle was burnt out (as you can see in the photograph above), however I immediately fell completely in love with this car, needless to say we negotiated a price & I was the proud owner of this very rare 1931 Model A Ford Tudor Delux Sedan. 

A couple of days later with the help of my son & one of his mates we drove back up to Newcastle to take delivery of the new old car to add to our stable, very proud of my latest acquisition. 

Now that is a quick rundown of how I first become a Model A Ford tragic, way back in 2009 (12-years ago).

The undercoated body shell prior to painting  

This vehicle took me 2-years to restore to its present condition, along with many hundreds of hours of labour, not forgetting the many thousands of dollars I spent importing all the parts brand new from America.

When I restored my 1931 2-door Model A Ford Tudor Delux Sedan in 2009/10/11, l removed the body from the chassis, starting from scratch, we powder coated the chassis plus all the vehicle's panels.

All the body panels required sandblasting
prior to painting

Meticulously rebuilt the engine, fitted a downdraft Weber carburettor, hand made exhaust extractors, overhauled the differential, suspension, installed a 5 speed synchromesh gearbox. 

I upgraded the electrical system from 6-12 volts, added transistorised ignition, converted the car from Left to Right-hand drive. New roof, new interior & seats, new paint job with pin-striping to highlight the panels & guards.

The reconditioned engine mounted into the frame of chassis

Now for a little piece of Trivia... did you know that you can still purchase everything brand new from America for a Model A Ford & also the Model T Ford right down to the last nuts & bolts?

My Model A Ford is better now than when it rolled out of the Ford factory floor 90-years ago, (see photographs) what's more it's a pleasure to drive with all the improvements. l could jump in the car right now & drive to Darwin without a worry in the world.

After 3-years of restoration this is the finished 
product. Compare this to the first photo with
the roof burnt out

To prove my point back in March 2012, immediately after I had completed the restoration I drove to the 22nd Annual Model A Ford Nationals in Ipswich in Queensland towing my Teardrop Caravan (photo below).

Heading off to Ipswich, Qld for the 
22nd Annual Model A Ford Nationals 

Then in Sept-October 2018 we drove to Adelaide, SA for the 25th Annual Model A Ford Nationals. While we were in town we competed in the Bay to Birdwood Vintage Car Rally. The Bay, being the beachside suburb of Gelenelg to the National Motor Museum in Birdwood, SA.

Lined up at the starting line in Glenelg of the
Bay to Birdwood Vintage Car Rally

Now let's get into the nitty gritty part of this blog. Yes, I suppose you are all wondering how much l have invested in my 1931 Model A Ford 2-door Tudor Delux Sedan, that I call 'Henry'. 

Purchase price $11,000, 2-years labour that I have not included in the final amount, parts imported from America, including six brand new tyres, paint job, pin-striping, engine rebuild, 5-speed Synchromesh gearbox imported from the US, differential overhaul, 6-12 volt conversation, left to right hand drive conversation, Weber Carby, transistorised ignition, tailor made exhaust extractors, & the list goes on & on.

The completed 'running gear' stage before
the body goes onto the chassis 

However I do now own a brand new 1931 Model A Ford 2-door Tudor Delux Sedan that I just love to pieces. All up the car owes me $55,000 that does not include my 2-year's labour.

Some of you may think that I am completely crazy, & yes, I probably am. However l now have a Vintage-Classic car that absolutely nobody else has just to my liking & I made it with my own two hands, this is not a cheque book restoration which is very important to me.

For those of you that know me - that suits me right down to the ground, because I love to own things that nobody else can have - no matter how much money they have.

Thanks & Cheers for now...

Warbo

In the blog to follow... you will learn how restoring this first vintage vehicle of mine gave me the Model A Ford affliction, where I went from owning one Model A Ford to owning five... and there's no known cure for that!

Ghosts of the Bullpen

Saturday 13th March - 2021 

Hello again to all my petrol head friends.

The Qantas connection scored an invitation to George & Lesley's spectacular display of their life-long passion in Speedway & Indianapolis 500 memorabilia & their toys. 

How could you ever forget the roar of 30,000 spectators, the smell of Methanol in the air, bright lights glimmering over the Dolomite & dirt race track every Saturday night during the summer season of Speedway racing at the Sydney Speedway Royale.

Our host for the day - George

A little over 12-months ago I attended the unveiling of a Memorial Plaque that was embedded into the footpath outside the residence at 186 Glenmore Road, Paddington of one of my childhood heroes & legends, none other than the all round good bloke & famous Speedway driver Jeffrey Freeman. Jeff was tragically killed instantly in a racing crash at Westmead on Mothers Day, 9th May 1965 at the ripe old age of 27-years of age.

If you like, you can read all about my hero (Jeff Freeman) CLICK HERE if you would like go back to my blog that I wrote on 6th March, 2020 titled 'Honouring a childhood hero of mine'.

On that fortuitous occasion I was introduced to George & Lesley, little did I know at that time they were dirt track Speedway & Indianapolis 500 'tragics' like myself. The gentleman that introduced me to them is a member of The Early V/8 Ford Club of NSW, a chap by the name of Rob Mercerio. 

Three ex-Qantas employees guests surround
our generous hosts Lesley & George

In the photograph above, you can see the strong Qantas connection, L to R. Steve Core, Ken Warburton (both Ex-Trolly Dollys), Lesley & George (please note that Lesley is holding an original Qantas travel bag that she used to take to school), Graeme Bethell (ex-head of operations for Qantas aircraft movements world wide). 

Due to this wretched China Virus The Early V/8 Ford Club have been trying to organise a visit to George & Lesley's museum (I don't say that lightly) as you will see by the following story & photographs that I am about to present to you.

Our invitation to view this amazing collection had been cancelled twice over the past 12-months because of that Virus, so you can well imagine how I have been hanging out to see all their goodies. Guess what, it all happened yesterday.

Visitor's parking for Early V/8 Ford Club member's
in George & Lesley's driveway
Photo: Steve Core

George & Lesley requested me to bring my 1931 Model A Ford Tudor Delux 2-door Sedan, they had heard about my vehicle & wanted to check out the "old girl'. We arrived at their residence in the Western Suburbs of Sydney around 10:00am as requested, in total there were 30 invited guests, 27 members from The Early V/8 Ford Club of NSW & then my party of three, being ex-Qantas employees. 

I had absolutely no idea that Qantas Airways played such a big part in the early days of Speedway racing here in Sydney, not only was Jeff Freeman employed at Qantas, there were a whole bunch of guys employed by the flying Red Kangaroo, needless to say, where else were all the foreign orders carried out when the head guy in the Maintenance Department was also a Speedway 'tragic'. Say no more!!!

Trophies from bygone days of Australian Speedway saved
from the fate of being taken to the rubbish tip

Three of these Trophies (above) were won by absolute Legends of Australian Speedway racing, & one by that other thrill seeker US legend & superstar Bob Tattersall. Bottom Left - Bob Tattersall. Top Left: Len Brock. Bottom right: Jeff Freeman. Top Right: Andy McGavin. All beautifully polished & presented by Lesley.

If you are serious about your passion for speed, every one must own their very own brick from the Indianapolis Motor Speedway. George & Lesley have this authentic brick in their collection from when they attended the 1992 Indy 500. Baked into the side of the brick it reads: W.C. Co. Culver Block. Pat. May 21st 1901.

This original brick from the Indianapolis Motor Speedway
known as 'the brickyard' dates back to 1901

In the very top opening photo, George is holding up a bonnet that was painted & sign written by the same gentleman that painted the pinstripes on my Model A Ford, his name is Alan Bongers, he has sign written all of George's race cars. Alan is still doing everything by hand, (no decals or computer cut lettering for this man) even though he is well into his 70s.

Now we get into the real action - George & Lesley's Speedcar collection:

#USA 1 Kurtis Kraft Offenhauser (Offy) built in 1946 in the USA and raced up to and then modified in 1996. In its younger life the car was driven by numerous Indy Champions. Brought to Australia by the reigning USAC Champ, Mike McGreevy in 1967. Bob Tattersall was Mike's touring partner in the Valvoline Offy #2. 

At the completion of its 1967 down-under tour, Mike McGreevy
was instructed to sell #1 by its owners - Bob & Don Weaver  

After completion of his tour, the car was sold in Australia and raced up until the early 1980s. During its career, this car had many owners among them for a short period of time was Blair Shepherd. 

Brought by George & Lesley as a total wreck in 1985. Restorations were completed in 2018. Mike McGreevy is no longer with us, he passed away on January 5th 2018.

All of George's cars feature hand-painted sign
writing by the talented Alan Bongers

#99 - Kurtis modified Edmunds Offenhauser, built in 1964 and imported from the USA by Blair Sheppard in 1966. Blair was a champion driver winning many races throughout Australia including the 1969 National Australian Title. 

Also in 1969 Blair was written up in Speedway Magazine as the "No.1 Driver of the Year". Of the nine Offies (all Black & Gold #99 and called WRM Offy - his mechanic's initials) that Blair owned during his racing career he considered to be his favourite car. 

The car was then sold to Barry Butterworth who the campaigned the car as the white No.26. Barry then won the 1973 New Zealand National Title and later declared it "the best car he had ever been associated with." George and Lesley acquired the car in 1987 and restored it back to the Black & Gold No.99. In 2001 the car won the NSW Vintage Speedcar Club's 'Restoration of the Year' award.

1969 was a remarkable season for Blair Shepherd
and he deserved the title "Driver of the Year."

Barry Butterworth could be considered one of NZ's greatest Speedway racing Legends. Barry raced not only in NZ but also the United States & Australia. Unfortunately Barry passed away of emphysema in November 1993 at the very young age of 54-years old.

Two of the greatest Australasian Speedway legends
both won National titles driving this all conquering car 

#16 - Grey Holden with all the necessary racing equipment. The car was rebuilt by Peter Nunn in 1969 and known as the Tornado MkII being a copy of the McGee Tornado Mk I. 

This has been George's work horse since its 'Restoration of the Year Award' win in 1993.

#16 has been George's work horse since its
Restoration of the Year Award in 1993

#8 - Built in 1965 by Bruce Rickard in Adelaide, SA with a 138 Grey Holden motor with a Repco Hypower Head - this motor was later replaced with an Offy. 

This car was brought by George & Lesley in 1985 and was rebuilt by George back to 1965-style with a Repco Hypower Holden motor. The Offy motor was rebuilt for the restoration of the McGreevy car.

No.8 - fitted with a Holden Repco Crossflow Engine

When Lesley first showed me this cabinet (below) my first thought was that she had been collecting spice jars. You're not going to believe what she has stored in these glass containers. 

Now if you think that you are an enthusiast or have a passion about anything, you don't even get a mention in my books. Remember I told you that they are dirt track Speedway & Indianapolis 'tragics' like myself.

Lesley's stockpile of speedway dirt from around
the globe spans across 60-years of travel & racing

Well, well, well... there is no way you would have guessed what is in those glass containers exactly the same as l didn't. Are you ready for this?

There is a sample of dirt from every dirt track race circuit that they have visited to watch Speedway or take part in speedway racing over a period of 60-years or so, & you think that you have a passion for your hobby, let me tell you something you are all still in Kindergarten. Can you believe that dedication, it absolutely blew me away.

This old Grey Holden motor (below) is fitted with a Repco Hypower Head which was very successful in speedcars. These heads were designed by Phil Irving (of Vincent motorcycle & Repco Brabham F1 Fame) & was only made to suit the Grey motor, opinions vary, but it appears that only 103 of these were made.

The very rare & valuable vintage Repco
Hypower cylinder head engine

The final photo (below) is of an Offenhauser Racing engine, or Offy, is a racing engine design that dominated American open wheel racing for more than 50-years & is still popular among vintage sprint & midget car racers.

Fred H. Offenhauser, Jr. was an American automotive engineer and mechanic who developed the Offenhauser racing engine, nicknamed the "Offy", which dominated competition in the Indianapolis 500 race for decades. 

The engine was driven to great success in roadsters at the Indianapolis 500, with 24 victories over a 27-year period. New turbo boost rules brought an end to the dominate era of Offenhauser engine.

A fine example of the legendary
Offenhauser Racing engine

When we finally departed George & Lesley's residence I was so overwhelmed by their gracious hospitality, I can honestly say that I have never witnessed anything like it in all my experience traveling the World. Yesterday was a unique experience because it took me back in time to when I was a hairy arsed kid in the early '60s & that can't be all that bad.

Thanks for sharing your treasures with us all.

Cheers from the 'Squire from the Shire'.

Regards

Ken Warburton